This story, however, starts in Honolulu in 1967. In the last year, he has written a number of terrific pieces that had nothing at all to do with surfing, including one about the ongoing fight for a livable minimum wage in the United States, and another about fleeting ups and downs of gold prospecting in the Peruvian Andes. Throughout his award-winning journalistic career, Finnegan has reported from the front lines of wars and other areas in turmoil South Africa at the end of apartheid, Sudan, Mexico, and countless others. That his memoir would be almost entirely concerned with wave riding is a bit of a surprise, if a welcome one. Finnegan lovingly remembers every break, treating them like old friends who only occasionally tried to brutally murder him. Honolulu, LA, Fiji, Australia, Madeira, San Francisco. In fact, there is no wave in his memoir Barbarian Days that Finnegan can't describe in intimate detail.
It was more that they scrambled it." Longtime New Yorker staff writer William Finnegan is being modest here, relating one of many spiritually resonant surfing experiences on Fiji's Tavarua Island in 1978. "It wasn't that the waves beggared language. Your purchase helps support NPR programming. Close overlay Buy Featured Book Title Barbarian Days Subtitle A Surfing Life Author William Finnegan
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